Monday, September 13, 2010

Boys of fall

From saltyfest

I remember being a kid and really hating fall. The beginning of school, the end of summer, weather getting cold. A real drag. Lately this has been changing for me, I really have come to love fall. Dry air, a chance to wear all my snazzy sweaters and cold weather duds, and finally camping without having sweaty sleeping bag stuck to you.
From saltyfest

Last weekend was truly the best of fall in wisconsin. SaltyFest 2 was all that makes mopeds great, with good friends, cheap booze, beautiful country riding and, oh yeah, 100s of cars getting smashed. Not enough you say? How about this FREAKIN JET CAR!
From saltyfest

Oh yeah, its melting two cars stacked on top of each other. MELTING THEM! They dont do this in france, son! Only one country has figure 8 BUS RACING!
From saltyfest

Figure 8 Trailer racing! Some crazy dude jumping a ford tempo off a moving ramp at like 60 miles per hour. THIS IS THE USA BABY! Where's my bruce springsteen when i get all jacked up on america 'n stuff.

Christine and 'her girls' got radical on some shots!
From saltyfest

We drank like 20 pitchers, or maybe more like ten but it was a lot. Oh yeah, fireworks too. Super rad weekend, thanks again Salty!

Thursday, September 9, 2010

Two steps forward, four steps back

Awesome wednesday night ride last night.... well not super awesome because I'm still pretty sick, and was being kinda a party pooper, but the puegeot finally made its Wednesday debut and was cooking along pretty well, definitely keeping up with the pack. Its really hard to get a feel for how fast this bike is because it is so quiet and doesn't really rev out or have the raw torque i'm used to from my maxi. The engine is eerily quiet at full speed, which is probably somewhere in the upper 30's.

It should have a lot more in it with proper tuning. I'm also not sure what the exhaust port looks like in these things stock, but the way it dies on the top end, i wouldn't be surprised if it was pretty restricted. Seeing as most accounts have them doing about 35 all bone stock, i've probably got a fair bit of tuning to do before its running at full potential.

In other news of awesome, the Sachs is running. I spent about an hour on it yesterday. The spark was weak and intermittent so I poked around a little bit and found that the internal coil unit was way too far away from the flywheel. I popped the flywheel off and used my masking tape trick to get the coils crazy close for maximum magnetic fluxin'. There is no flywheel key in this because i got it from crazy euro kids who dont believe in that sort of thing, so the timing is kindof a guess. There are timing marks on the flywheel but who knows if its in the right place. Either way everything looks really good and its now blasting out a fat blue spark.

True to form for this awesome kit, it fires up halfway through the first kick. Even with a massive air leak due to a missing manifold bolt it popped right to life. For some reason the chain i took off it is way too short... cant imagine how that happened seeing as it should be the same exact gears and motor from 1 speed to 2 speed, but somehow i'm about 7 links short so i decided to go ahead and put the tomos rear sprocket on. At first glance these looked compatable, but trying to fit them i found the tomos mounting bolt holes are a smaller diameter pattern- crap!

Since this is a fairly important part, i dont really want to fudge it so i think i'm going to rotate the sprocket 90 degrees and drill a whole new bolt pattern using the indexing table on the mill. I might also upgrade to a slightly larger bolt (maybe SAE rather than metric) because the little cast nubs inside the hub that are supposed to hold the nut when you tighten the bolt are all ground off from having changed this sprocket many times. All they do now is prevent the use of a socket wrench to hold them.

Either way, a productive day. Not sure if i'll have time to get both the puegeot dialed in (including switching out handlebars) and finish buttoning up the sachs all in one day before Saltyfest this weekend, but it looks like this chain/sprocket thing is going to dick me... oh well, looks like i'm moving the release date on the sachs back to bombourbon run. That will give me time to design/build the ultra-luxo-cruiser long seat and modular luggage system i've been fantasizing.

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

FACO power for le peugeot


This pipe has tempted every Peugeot owner since it came up on treats and 77 a couple years ago. Its unreasonably cheap, looks like it should mount with minimal complications, and from the pictures appears to be a halfway decent shape for stock-ish bikes. The scary part is that there is almost no information. I got my first Pug a couple weeks ago, and nobody could say for sure 'I've ran this, its good' besides somebody saying Fred (all your moped are belong to us) had a couple bikes running mid 50's with them, kitted.


So after a couple days of homework, i took the plunge and invested the 45 dollars in it. When it showed up I measured it. Here are the measurements:

Faco Dimensions

It looks to be about the same as a puch proma GP, maybe closer to a Jamarcol.. never measured one. The only dimension that is really wrong is the convergent cone. This one has a sharp taper and is only 4" long. In theory, that should result in narrow powerband that shuts down abruptly, not exactly what i'm looking for on a stock bike.

The other thing i noticed right away were some suspicious-looking spot-welds right in the belly section of the pipe. Since i knew i wanted to build an integrated silencer and i wanted to re-do the convergent cone, I figured i might as well get to hackin' to see whats up with those spot welds.

I also mocked up the pipe on the bike and found out that the mounting brackets are too short. The flange wouldn't sit flat, and the belly of the pipe was hitting the little nub that holds on the flywheel cover. Might be designed for a knock-off of the puegot with a CDI stator, or something like that. Either way, it needs about 9/16" added to each of the mounting bracket arm thingies.

After chopping the pipe in half i found this:
From Pipes


Oh man, that sucks, not only is it almost impossible to remove without chopping a huge chunk of the belly section out, but it is most certainly a major restriction. It pretty much defeats the entire purpose of an expansion chamber and turns this into a stupid looking muffler that doesn't muffle much. If I didn't care, i would probably just cut out the inside of this with a torch or something and weld the pipe back together as it was, and slap an aftermarket silencer on it, but i like skinny long pipes for stock bikes, and this looks like with a little work it could be really awesome.

So i cut out the restrictor, and lost most of the belly section of the pipe. In order to get the integrated silencer to clear pedals and stuff, i had to cock it out so i beveled the cut a bit outwards and welded in a new chunk of belly section, a bit longer than necessary. I formed a cone out of some sheetmetal for the convergent cone, and welded that to my new stinger, which was drilled for perforation. The new convergent cone is a bit longer and has a larger stinger outlet, hopefully giving the effect of a longer duration power band.

I test fit the pipe, and now the angled belly section was hitting the little nub on the stator where the rubber tab bolts on. Easy fix- put the pipe in a vise and bend the header and all the mounting tabs over, so now the pipe is tipped down a bit on the outlet side. The stock mounting brackets should do the trick now also, because i dont have to drop it down to clear that nub anymore. The muffler has to come back up to clear the 2.25" gap between the pedal and the kickstand, so I welded the cone back into the belly section tube with a slight up-kick. I'll have to put a turn-down or something on the end of the stinger to keep from greasing my rear wheel but no biggie.

I've also gone to a smaller muffler canister, 1_3/4" tube instead of 2.25 to clear the pedals a bit more easily. The sound dampening might not be as good, but it will still be better than those proma circuit exhausts.

From Pipes


As of now, its mocked up and tacked together. I'll test-fit it tonight. I've hooked up a 14mm bing carb with a shim to the stock intake, reeds. Hopefully this will have things running well enough for tomorrow night, and we'll be able to do a little shakedown before grand rapids.

UPDATE 8/19:
Mega boner kill, Caite and I had a serious talk yesterday at lunch and decided we should probably pay the power bill instead of going to Grand Rapids. It would be fun, but both the Sachs and Puegeot are in the early stages of tuning and probably not rally-ready, we're both broke, and I have a huge backlog of work to catch up on from summer vacationing too much at the beginning of the month. Maybe if my paycheck comes in tomorrow and is huge, i'll hop in someone's van at the last second, but its doubtful.

The good news is that the pipe fits perfectly. It variates perfectly through the gap between the pedal and kickstand. The bike fired up on the first kick, and revs out like a cross between a wounded cougar and a chainsaw, but something is keeping it from idling, possibly timing, possibly something having to do with the super random assortment of bing parts that i turned into a carb. The pipe is amazingly quiet, like, quieter than a tecno estoril, quiet.

The fan wasn't working in the workshop yesterday (again) so between a kinda-iffy bing needle and lots of exhaust fumes i couldn't get things dialed in before i asphyxiated myself. Pictures and final tuning results later tonight, maybe I'll get the sachs cabled-up and assembled a bit too.

Update 8/23:
Finally got this thing running pretty well after replacing the condenser. Small job turned into 2 hours of beating on a flywheel with a hammer because i didn't have a peugeot puller. Damn. Its running a lot better, but now it seems rich. Its running a 70 jet in a 14 mm bing, which would be huge for a stock/piped puch, but its really bogging out bad on the top end. Methinks timing might be way too retarded at 1.65, or maybe it really is sucking in that much air. The variator is also pretty much useless with the current weighting because it variates way under the power band of the pipe. That needs to be fixed as well. More later

Bonus: the sachs is fully cabled and almost ready to run, the shifter cable is perfect but it keeps slipping off, i'll have to do something about that.

Update 8/24:
Awesome success last night, finally got things running perfect-o, blasting right up to a solid 25 then slowly climbing to about 35... meh, sounds like those tiny little flippy-flappies are choking me out. it four-strokes like a mother when it revs out on the stand.... yep, restricted reeds, indeed.

luckily my patron saint, blaze, lent me some nice generic black plastic reedy things, until i can get some thinner gasket paper and chop up my flap-holes. frabjulous!

maybe wednesday i can duck out of work early and finish the sachs, it is so painfully close right now. shifter, clutch and everything seem to be working good. still have to find a plug for my voltage regulator chinese scooter special, and do a tiny bit of rewiring for the 12v system. oh yeah and the pipe needs a little persuasion as well.

Wednesday, July 28, 2010

More new products!

I've been flogging the hell out of my poor little kidnapped Keebler Elves and managed to squeeze out a few new products I'm super proud of. Both should be top sellers in stock at Treatland soon.

First, the 'treats reed kit' aka 'tomos alukit machined for puch exhaust flange' has a major design flaw, the deck height is about +3-4 mm from the top of the piston. Ohnoes! Low compression to be sure, which is a major bummer for a kit with awesome bottom end. I built one of these a few months back and tried a couple different things to get it in spec, but the easiest solution i found was a super-duper high compression head.

From Puch 'treats' reed kit - Noah Bern


These are machined from puch Magnum heads, which fit the fins relatively close
From Puch 'treats' reed kit - Noah Bern


Not perfect, but the performance increase is noticeable. Starts much better, timing is more predictable, and it feels like it has way better torque, but that's hard to claim without a dyno. Anyhow, about 4 of these are in testing and have been running great.

That build also made me re-think a big problem area for owners of magnums. Over the years I've tried a few different ways to mount maxi exhausts onto magnums, including flat brackets with bends, different shims, etc, and nothing has been satisfactory in terms of looking clean, simple, and fitting a variety of different bikes, kits, and pipes. Finally I came up with this little guy:
From Puch 'treats' reed kit - Noah Bern


Simple, elegant, and the test models seem to fit most magnums. The only one that had complications, i believe was crashed because the pipe was all chewed up and the arm was bent.


The final version is much more professional looking and entirely made of stainless steel and aluminum, with plated grade 5 and grade 8 fasteners. I dont have a picture handy, but there will be one up on treatland when they get them in.

Thursday, June 17, 2010

Honda hobbit variator 'notching'

I started making hobbit weights a few years ago for friends and such, because there is really nothing on the aftermarket, and the stock weights are hard steel, which is tough to modify, and the chincy little plastic nubs on them fall off. I started with a few different metals and ended up using a very hard acetal polymer.

I have since learned other moped wizard guru types have been doing this much longer than i have, and came to the same conclusions. I've sold a few through Treatland now, of my best design and manufacturing methods, and there have been some complaints. One of the first test sets i made, had the same problem. The weight pushes out too far and gets pinched, with the sharp steel outer plate digging into the plastic and jamming it in fully variated position. Some R&D confirmed this was due to people improperly 'notching' their variators, so I made a note to doccument it the next time i did it. Peter's Blog has a ton of great info on hopping up Hobbits, including info on variator notching. You should read all of that first, but in how it directly relates to 'Moped Factory' Slick Rick Rollers, I would like to add a bit of detail.

The very important first step in the process is carefully measuring a line around the variator 10 mm from the outside edge. I've done this with a caliper, but if you dont have one a wrench might work well. the exact number isn't super precise (+/- .2 maybe) but making sure its even will keep things balanced and make sure it variates precisely.
From Hobbit Vario Notch


Tape off the line so you can see it and make sure its dead-on. Then get your dremel cut-off wheel out and start cutting just above the taped edge, along where the roller 'track' goes through.
From Hobbit Vario Notch


Next, cut the rest of the window out, along the edges of the roller 'track'. I use the hacksaw because its way faster than the stupid dremel wheels, but maybe you're turbo lazy or something. Either way, cut that out of there.
From Hobbit Vario Notch


You will probably be left with a little material in the corners holding it in, a quick tap tap taparooo with the hammer will bust those chunks out.
Before:
From Hobbit Vario Notch


After:
From Hobbit Vario Notch


This is what it should look like from the inside. Note the fact that the cut edge sticks above the top of the roller track by about 3 mm. This is about the thickness of the cut area... coincidence? i think not!
From Hobbit Vario Notch


Now you just take your grinding bit and extend the ramp through the wall of the variator.
From Hobbit Vario Notch
The key is that you aren't grinding down the original ramp at all, just extending it. What you dont want to do is cut off flush with the top edge of the ramp, and then grind it down, you are changing the clearance between the two ramp surfaces, and now the rollers dont fit. Maybe i'll do a diagram of this later.

When you're finished it should look like this: (or maybe even prettier, if you want to go nuts with fine bits... not that important)
From Hobbit Vario Notch


The key is first and foremost making sure everything is exactly symmetrical with respect to the 3 roller tracks.

For those of you who already screwed up your variators, i'll be shipping out some 'oversized' rollers as soon as i can test them. Hopefully we can save the variators.

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

Test Dummies needed!



Yeah, finally came up with a nifty solution to the 'Magnum- maxi- exhaust bracket' issue... If you're rocking a magnum and want to try out my new bracket thinger, shoot me an email.

I'm looking for people who will actually put miles on these things, preferrably with estoril's (like heavy pipes) but its more important they get beat on.

Hopefully this will prevent the untimely end of thousands of poor cylinders from broken studs/air leaks/warping... etc.

Friday, May 7, 2010

Spring time- so busy now!

It sucks I haven't been able to update this in awhile, but sadly, most of what I'm working on falls under the umbrella of semi-classified. I'm back at my old job doing product testing at MSOE, so my free time has completely disappeared, I'm spending a lot of time doing some repair work that has been haunting me all winter, we're getting ready to move, so i'm packing up the shop and getting rid of junk, and most importantly I'm finally getting more parts off the ground and into production. All my cash and time have been tied up with product testing and development lately, but it should start paying off.

If you're waiting on machine work, I'm sorry, things are crazy busy right now, and the heads, kits, etc. are on the back burner while i try to get some products developed. Its amazing how much time and effort goes into producing something from an idea, to prototyping, testing, refinement, production, etc etc. I'm committed to producing the finest quality, made-in-america high performance moped parts, and its very time consuming, but hang in there folks. Some really great stuff is on its way.